I have the habit of making costumes for really good friends, it just gets a bit tricky when she lives several states away…
Enter the test kirtle!
I ran across a linen blend with just enough left on the bolt for a kirtle and sleeves. (Not shown because it was hot that day at NYRF.)
I made up the skirt first and decided to have it lace to the bodice. (Which may or may not have been done in the 16th century.) For the bodice I drafted a pattern block for her a few years ago and adjusted it as needed.
We had a chance to visit each other over the summer, where I got to do a quick fitting. I did some very quick sewing and got to the point where I was able to start the front eyelets on the way home. Several more eyelets, finger loop braiding for the lacing and a few video chats later it was sent up and worn.
The bodice is unboned and interlined with some twill to keep it light weight and comfortable. The skirt has a hidden pocket in the side seam.