Centuries-Sewing

Category: Costumes

  • Pad stitching and Shaping a Linen Doublet

     

    Some work in progress shots of a 16th century black linen doublet.

    Doublet front basted and shaped.

    Doublet front basted and shaped.

     

    Under side of the doublet front, canvas and pad stitched wool

     

    Under side of the doublet front, canvas and pad stitched wool.

    Under side of the doublet back, more canvas and pad stitched wool.

    Under side of the doublet back, more canvas and pad stitched wool.

  • Juan de Alcega Tailor’s Pattern Book: Manteo or a skirt of cloth

    Juan de Alcega Tailor’s Pattern Book: Manteo or a skirt of cloth

    I’m in need of a new underskirt or petticoat for my 16th century clothing. I’ve been using the same cotton broadcloth one I made back in 2005, for years now. It is serviceable, but it adds a lot of bulk at the waist and it isn’t very authentic in construction or materials.

    So it is time to for a new one.

    I have 3.5 yards of a lovely wine colored, lightweight worsted wool donated to me by Noel. (Thank you Noel! <3 )

    I’ll be drafting the pattern on the fabric and  hand sewing the whole thing with linen thread.

     

    wine red wool and thread

     

    I’m working from the Spanish version of Alcega’s Book. The english translation is out-of-print and painfully expensive. I’m not a native nor fluent spanish speaker so google and a few other resources will be heavily used.

    I’m using the translated chart of symbols from the tailors book into modern inches from the Curious Frau’s site.

    Taking some inspiration from Other Andrew’s The Alcega Project.

    And keeping in mind the information Mathew Gnagy of the Modern Maker has posted about his study of the patterns on his blog and on the Elizabethan Costume Facebook group.

     

     

    Definition from “Nuevo diccionario portatil, espanol e ingles: compuesto segun los mejore…“

    Manteo: s, m : a church man’s cloke; a woman’s under petticoat.

    Language is a fluid thing, always changing. The above definition is from 1728 far later than the 16th century. However even later dictionaries simply list it as a cloak or mantle. Context is key, when it is listed as Manteo de Muger, chances are it is a skirt.

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  • A 1920’s Flapper Halloween and more

    I’m not post much as I’m getting married Nov. 1st! All the wedding stress and appointments and planning means not much sewing time.

    I did manage to get this patterned and partly sewn up the past few weeks.

    It still needs a slip, binding, and hem but at least it is no longer looking sad on my dressform.

     

    Red and black sequined 1920's inspired dressDeep V back red and black sequined 1920's inspired dress

  • Fitting Points on the Tudor Tailor’s English Fitted Gown

    Fitting Points on the Tudor Tailor’s English Fitted Gown

    I’ve made three English Fitted Gowns based on the Tudor Tailor’s pattern so far, and with each one I’ve tweaked how I’ve put them together.

    olive wool fitted english gown
    Light weight worsted wool gown lined with linen rayon blend
    English Gown Front View
    Black Velvet “Mockado” Gown lined with cotton broadcloth
    Market Woman side shot
    Wool broadcloth blend lined with cotton broadcloth

    Issue one: Sleeve Dimples

    Fitted gown sleeve dimple

     

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  • Dress pins made from jewelry findings

    I’m finishing up the bright red wool kirtle and this time around I need some dress pins to keep the sleeves on.

    I remembered Catrin’s pin making tutorial but knew I didn’t have the right gauge wire on hand, but I did have some decorative head pins left over from making the  green tudor gown.

    I followed the same process Catrin’s tutorial showed, save that I didn’t have to wire wrap to make the head of the pin, and I don’t have a jewelry anvil. I work-hardened the length of the pin by hammering it flat on my front porch, nipped the ends with wire cutters and sanded it down with a file.

     

    Dress pins made from jewelry findings

     

     

  • Aqua Blue Elf Gown Work in Progress

    We all have wip projects somewhere in the back of the closet. In my case I’ve been working on this Lord of the Rings inspired elf gown for the past three years (at least) using fabric I’ve had in my stash for almost nine years.

    But the end is near! I have some bead work to do on the belt and neckline, the cloak to figure out and the sash to hem but that is it. There is a plain white under dress that goes with it since the odd textured knit fabric I used is sheer, but it does not fit on the form.

     

    Aqua Elf Dress with cloak

    Aqua Elf Dress without cloak

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

     

    Aqua Elf Dress Fabric

  • Hand Sewing a Red Wool Petticoat/Kirtle

    Hand sewing my way through another petticoat/kirtle project, this time in a scarlet colored light weight wool.

     

    Sewing the skirt with a spaced back stitch
    Sewing the skirt with a spaced back stitch.
    Patterning the red wool kirtle.
    Patterning the red wool kirtle.
    Sewing the bodice with the back stitch
    Sewing the bodice with the back stitch.
    Sewing down seam allowances with the herringbone stitch.
    Sewing down seam allowances with the herringbone stitch.
  • Nonesuch Market Woman

    Nonesuch Market Woman

    Starting off the New Year with finishing a big project!

    More photos can be found on the Nonesuch costume page.

    Market woman front shot Nonesuch map market woman