Centuries-Sewing

Category: Sewing

  • A Kirtle Sew Along: Introduction and Materials

    A Kirtle Sew Along: Introduction and Materials

    A Kirtle Sew Along
    Awesome Banner to use if you are playing along! Just have it link to: https://centuries-sewing.com/category/kirtle-sew-along/

    So I posted about this on Facebook and on the Renn. costume forum but forgot to post about it here. Opps.

    I’ve made a lot of kirtles, in various ways, with various materials and stiffening. I’ve also answered a lot of questions about kirtles, and while I will be the first to tell you I’m not the end all be all fount of kirtle information, I have learned a great deal about them.

    I’ve decided to host a kirtle sew along, and go step by step on how I make a basic 16th century kirtle. This will help people just starting out, middle of the road sewers and maybe the experts will pick up a few tricks. I’m going to be posting in a mixture of photos, written instructions and if the weather cooperates, video.

    I’m not going to hand sew this one, I tend to use the sewing machine where it will not show and hand finish the parts that will.

    Kirtle Sew Along Materials
    Wool! Twill! Calico! Linen!

    General Materials needed:

    I’m giving a rough idea in the amounts listed if you are taller than average or plan to heavily preshrink your fabrics add more yardage.

     

    4 to 5 yards of wool

    4 to 5 yards linen for lining or just 2 yards of linen if only lining the bodice and sleeves

    1 to 2 yards of twill/drill/canvas for interlining

     2 to 4 yards muslin/calico for flatlining and mock ups

    Matching embrodiery thread for eyelets

    A roll of paper for patterning, or newspaper can work in a pinch..

    Tracing wheel

    Awl

    Chalk

    Hand sewing needles, pins and so forth.

    Lacing strips for fitting.

    Pattern:

    simplicity pattern 3723
    Simplicity pattern 3723

    After much debate, I decided to use a store bought pattern as a base.  Not everyone has a fitted bodice block, nor does everyone have access to a printer to print one out, or a dress form for draping.

    Simplicity 3723 and 2354 is a basic costume pattern in a good range of sizes, the “Pilgrim” dress  has waist darts and bust darts but no other fancy shaping so it is ideal for adapting. And in the U.S. with Halloween coming up they usually put the patterns on sale.

     

     

     

    I’ll cover rotating out the darts, adapting the pattern to a curved front bodice, trouble shoot any fitting issues as best I can and any other things that might come up.

    I haven’t worked with commercial patterns for a long time so this will be a refresher course for me.

    We will be ignoring the pattern instructions, if you have a similar pattern in your stash, feel free to use it instead.

     

     

     

  • Spiral Lacing Template or Jig, perfect alignment every time.

    Spiral Lacing Template or Jig, perfect alignment every time.

    As much as I love spiral lacing, and many kudos to Festive Attyre for introducing it to the costume world. (Or at least that is where I learned it from.)

    But I hate marking eyelets. Something always goes a bit wibbly, and I am not going to pay 20 bucks for the little button hole marker no matter how neat it is.

    As of late I’ve been using the back of another costume to mark my eyelets, but things went a bit off on that one too. So it carries over to all the things I mark.

    I will suffer this no longer.

    What you need:

    • 2 narrow bits of cardstock or oaktag the same width (an inch or two is good) and height.
    • A ruler
    • A nice sharp pencil or fine tip pen
    • An awl, compass point, or something you can poke small holes with

    Step 1: Take two strips of card and draw a line 1/2 an inch from the edge. Step 1: Take two strips of card and draw a line 1/2 an inch from the edge. If you tend to make your eyelets further in from the edge or have boning to put in, make the line the width of the boning plus a little extra.

    Pardon the iffy lighting on these, there was a huge thunderstorm going on while I was doing this.

    Step 2: Draw a line 1/2 an inch from the top on both card strips. Step 2: Draw a line 1/2 an inch from the top on both card strips.

    Step 3: On one strip, go down another 1/2 an inch. Set the second strip aside.
    Step 3: On one strip, go down another 1/2 an inch. Set the second strip aside.

    Step 4: Measure down 1 inch from the mark you just made and continue down.
    Step 4: Measure down 1 inch from the mark you just made and continue down.

    Step 5: Now take your second strip. Starting from your half inch mark measure down 1 inch. When you set the strips side by side the marks should be off set by 1/2 an inch.
    Step 5: Now take your second strip. Starting from your 1/2 inch mark measure down 1 inch and continue down. When you set the strips side by side the marks should be off set by 1/2 an inch.

    Notice here mine got offset by a bit more, most likely due to the thick pencil I was using.

    Step 6: Double check your marks. I corrected them with a fine tip pen. When you get near the end of your second strip stop. Put the strips side by side again. On your second strip go down 1/2 an inch from your bottom mark and make a line. The bottom lines on both strips need to match or what you are lacing won't align evenly.

    Step 6: Double check your marks. I corrected them with a fine tip pen. When you get near the end of your second strip stop. Put the strips side by side again. On your second strip go down 1/2 an inch from your bottom mark and make a line. The bottom lines on both strips need to match or what you are lacing won’t align evenly.

    Step: 7: Use an awl or something small a pointy make small holes in the cardstock where your lines cross. You want the hole just big enough that a pencil point will just be able to mark through it. A hole punch is too big and will lead to things getting wibbly again.

    Now next time you have a bodice to mark for eyelets rather then fuss with a ruler just align the template along the edge and mark.