The Cranberry Test Kirtle

Cranberry Working Class Kirtle

 

This is a budget kirtle (total cost for materials maybe 30 bucks?) made for a friend who lives several states away.
I had a chance to do one unplanned fitting on her of a mock-up from old measurements, I pinned the heck out of it, scribbled a few notes, and took it away with me back to Florida to come up with this. This is a test kirtle because I now have some wool to make her another one, and would rather work out any other fitting issues before I cut into the good stuff.

It is a cranberry colored linen/rayon blend that my camera hates to photograph and I can’t seem to color correct to a shade near what it should be. It should look more like this:

Not hot pink or barbie pink. The skirt is one I finished some time ago,  it laces to the bodice through eyelets on each side and has a hidden side pocket.

The  bodice is interlined with cotton twill and lined with more cotton. There is no boning and hopefully it should keep her comfortable and supported.

I ended up piecing the bodice shoulder straps to allow for a bit of custom tweaking based on some fit issues we had, if the straps are a touch too long the squares are easy to unpick and the straps can be whip stitched back together. The sleeves are just pinned on in the photos, once the shoulder straps are finalized the eyelets can be put in.

All that I really have left to do is make more fingerloop braid for the sleeve lacing and the skirt to bodice lacing.

Green Silk Tudor Front Shot

Green Tudor/Henrician Gown Finished!

Here is a run down of all the layers. Cotton/linen smock: Machine sewn with hand finished seams and hems. Cuffs: Machine “blackwork” with silk thread, hand hemmed, they lace on to the smock cuffs with fingerloop braid so I can change them out as needed and wash them separately. Rust red petticoat: Same one I [...]

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Brian Froud’s Costume Sketches from Labyrinth

Labyrinth Woman Ballroom Costume Design I

Brian Froud -Woman Ballroom Costume Design I Labyrinth, 1984 Graphite, ink 16 x 20″

I ran across this a few weeks ago, a gallery in NYC is showing the Froud’s work. Including sketches from The Good and Bad Fairy Book, Dark Crystal, a few things I don’t recognize and of course Labyrinth.

I am not located in NYC, nor am I heading up there any time soon.  So I’m quite happy to see the collection is online and even better the costume designs for the ballroom dancers are included, along with Jareth’s armor/coat, goblins, and other assorted puppets.

This will making coming up with my own inspired version easier. Time to break out my pencils and water-color.

 

Labyrinth  Copyright © The Jim Henson Company

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Labyrinth Costume Research

I’m plotting a Labyrinth ball gown costume and took a few screen caps to use as references. Some of the skirts seem to have net petticoats underneath, others none at all. The bodices on the gowns vary from princess seamed to fitted panels with draped layers. Shot silk looked like the main fabric, along with various damasks an in one case some type of vinyl.

Now I just need to sketch some ideas.

Labyrinth  Copyright © The Jim Henson Company

sleevepattern

Green Tudor is Done, Baby Steps with Pattern Grading.

I’ve been a bit neglectful of posting since I was down to the wire with the Green Tudor Gown. It is and it had its first outing, but I don’t have pictures yet. I have a list of excuses but first and foremost  the temperature has shot up into the mid 80′s. For Florida which is [...]

Green Tudor Gown Design Sketch

In the past 2 weeks..

In the past 2 weeks I have sew/reconstructed/finished the following:

 

One cotton/linen shift, machine sewn, seams whip stitched down by hand, hand made eyelets and hand finger looped lacing cords.

Took in my farthingale and reboned it with steel wire.

Made a coif with pleated “crispin”.

Patterned and made the Green Tudor stomacher/plackard.

Patterned GT undersleeves and bound them with satin.

Made all the poofs and hand hemmed the cuffs.

Reattached the GT skirt again…

Bound the GT hem in hunter green satin.

Made the sash for the GT.

Attached the large sleeves of doom to the GT.

My deadline is March 10th so I can wear it to the Ren Faire.

 

Green Tudor Gown Design Sketch

The 4th time is the charm right?

 

Green Tudor Skirt Attached Back Shot

 

Green Tudor Skirt Attached Side Shot

Green Tudor Gown Design Sketch

Progress on the Green Tudor Bodice

Fitting the green silk Tudor bodice

Fitting the green silk Tudor bodice

Scaling up Historical Patterns using Radial Projection

As requested, I finally got done editing and doing the voice over for the tutorial I shot back in September.

I hope everything makes sense and it isn’t too boring!

Green Tudor Gown Design Sketch

Green “Tudor” Gown bodice mock-up 2.0

Working on the sleeves a bit more, I’m getting close!