Finally an update on the MAaS kirtle V1







I need to leave myself instruction sheets

When you take out an old unfinished project to work on and have no idea what you were thinking. Why is my kirtle neckline rounded? I know I cut half sleeves for it but I have no idea where they have gone. I stitched around the edges of the interlining that is fraying like mad […]


More Penny Dreadful Planning

I haven’t sewn the past few days, some of it was taken up by a 5 hour “clean all the things!” urge. My sewing area is a little better, but I still have some things to go through. My bathroom however, is spotless.




I ordered 6 yards of this poly-cotton satin to make a petticoat as what I have for underpinnings is all 16th century based. It should be here Monday and the dark brown will give the black a tiny bit of color. It shall have ruffles! I need to find my ruffle foot and my rolled hemmer foot.

I also hit up pinterest to try and find some examples of petticoats for 1889 – 1891.




“Der Bazar 1889: Striped petticoat; 75. front part in half size, 76. side gore, 77. back upper breadth in half size, 78. back bottom breadth in half size”

I found a few more petticoat drawings from catalogs, but I have not found many extant ones, most seems to be dated earlier or later. But so far the drawstring and yoke seems to be a feature. Since this is not my usual era I have no idea if this is a carryover from the bustle or not, does anyone know?


P. Clement Brown’s Art in Dress Illustrations

How cool is this? 1920’s patterns/draft manual with gorgeous illustrations (unfortunately some are products of their time) from P. Clement Brown’s “Art in Dress 1922”. Time to break out the colored pencils!


Art in Dress

Some are at:

And the Internet Archive has the full book:


More on the Penny Dreadful Gown

My inspiration dress from the Met




The pattern I’m using for the skirt I found on Pinterest,




What the back of the bodice currently looks like, I decided on a swallow-tail back. More inspiration pictures and trimming ideas can be found on my Penny Dreadful Costume pin board.

Penny Dreadful inspired gown and fabric that I’ve had for at least 10 years



Part 5 of the Elizabethan Kirtle Sew-Along Renaissance

Four videos today, this weekend I’m going to shoot some more.

Pressing and prep for the sleeve seam allowances


Pressing the seam allowance with a seam roll when the sleeve is too narrow for the board.

Sewing in the lining at the top of the sleeve.

Hand sewing the bottom of the sleeve shut.



Part 4 of the Elizabethan Kirtle Sew-Along Renaissance


Marking the eyelets out for spiral lacing

Cutting out the sleeves (the wool is from my stash and the wrinkles would not steam out)

First pass of sewing the sleeves together.


Part 3 of the Elizabethan Kirtle Sew-Along Renaissance


Sewing in the lining around the top edge

Clipping into corners and trimming

Edge stitching the seam allowance to the lining along the top

Part 2 of the Elizabethan Kirtle Sew-Along Renaissance

Pleating the skirt down with knife pleats and a box pleat in the back


Basting the pleats in place

Ironing the pleats down to keep things from moving around when I sew the skirt to the bodice