Lots of hand sewing this week, I’ve gotten very good at pad-stitching. So far I’ve done the layered interlining of a jerkin and I’m almost done pad-stitching the same for the Saxon Gown bodice.
Tag: linen
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Working on another Ruff!
I had two or three days with my internet not working or being on again, off again. So I started another hand sewn ruff (I may have a problem).
I just finished putting the neckband on and this time I made sure to sew down every tiny pleat that I could on both sides. I have no idea how they managed to sew the pleats to the band in the 16th century without high-powered lights, I had issues even with my ott light over my shoulder. I adjusted (enhanced!) the photo to show the stitching.
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The finished Elizabethan ruff and some progress photos.
The starched Elizabethan ruff after drying and before setting. 
The starched Elizabethan ruff dampened before setting. 
First try at the sets came out too big. 
The finished Elizabethan ruff with a 3 inch and 1/4th set. -
Fitted English Gown, Green Kirtle, Linen/Cotton Shirt, and Wool Petticoat Done.
It’s done, it’s done!
I finished the full Elizabethan ensemble (it does need some ruffs but that is for another day) for my friend’s birthday/Gift-mas/every other holiday in the world for the next 300 years. I am now going to sleep the sleep of the dead.
So starting with the bottom layers:
Linen/cotton blend shirt with reinforced french seams. Cranberry wool skirt with tucked hem, a pocket and fingerloop braided closing.
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The Pink Linen Test Kirtle In Action
The pink linen kirtle I made for a friend made its debut last weekend. Linen/rayon blend soft bodice with handmade eyelets. It has sleeves but it was way too hot for them. Over all I am pleased the next version in green wool will need very little tweaking.
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A Kirtle Sew Along: Introduction and Materials
Awesome Banner to use if you are playing along! Just have it link to: https://centuries-sewing.com/category/kirtle-sew-along/ So I posted about this on Facebook and on the Renn. costume forum but forgot to post about it here. Opps.
I’ve made a lot of kirtles, in various ways, with various materials and stiffening. I’ve also answered a lot of questions about kirtles, and while I will be the first to tell you I’m not the end all be all fount of kirtle information, I have learned a great deal about them.
I’ve decided to host a kirtle sew along, and go step by step on how I make a basic 16th century kirtle. This will help people just starting out, middle of the road sewers and maybe the experts will pick up a few tricks. I’m going to be posting in a mixture of photos, written instructions and if the weather cooperates, video.
I’m not going to hand sew this one, I tend to use the sewing machine where it will not show and hand finish the parts that will.
Wool! Twill! Calico! Linen! General Materials needed:
I’m giving a rough idea in the amounts listed if you are taller than average or plan to heavily preshrink your fabrics add more yardage.
4 to 5 yards of wool
4 to 5 yards linen for lining or just 2 yards of linen if only lining the bodice and sleeves
1 to 2 yards of twill/drill/canvas for interlining
2 to 4 yards muslin/calico for flatlining and mock ups
Matching embrodiery thread for eyelets
A roll of paper for patterning, or newspaper can work in a pinch..
Tracing wheel
Awl
Chalk
Hand sewing needles, pins and so forth.
Lacing strips for fitting.
Pattern:
Simplicity pattern 3723 After much debate, I decided to use a store bought pattern as a base. Not everyone has a fitted bodice block, nor does everyone have access to a printer to print one out, or a dress form for draping.
Simplicity 3723 and 2354 is a basic costume pattern in a good range of sizes, the “Pilgrim” dress has waist darts and bust darts but no other fancy shaping so it is ideal for adapting. And in the U.S. with Halloween coming up they usually put the patterns on sale.
I’ll cover rotating out the darts, adapting the pattern to a curved front bodice, trouble shoot any fitting issues as best I can and any other things that might come up.
I haven’t worked with commercial patterns for a long time so this will be a refresher course for me.
We will be ignoring the pattern instructions, if you have a similar pattern in your stash, feel free to use it instead.
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The Pink Linen Test Kirtle
This is a budget kirtle (total cost for materials maybe 30 bucks?) made for a friend who lives several states away.
I had a chance to do one unplanned fitting on her of a mock-up from old measurements, I pinned the heck out of it, scribbled a few notes, and took it away with me back to Florida to come up with this. This is a test kirtle because I now have some wool to make her another one, and would rather work out any other fitting issues before I cut into the good stuff.It is a cranberry colored linen/rayon blend that my camera hates to photograph and I can’t seem to color correct to a shade near what it should be. It should look more like this:
Not hot pink or barbie pink. The skirt is one I finished some time ago, it laces to the bodice through eyelets on each side and has a hidden side pocket.
The bodice is interlined with cotton twill and lined with more cotton. There is no boning and hopefully it should keep her comfortable and supported.
I ended up piecing the bodice shoulder straps to allow for a bit of custom tweaking based on some fit issues we had, if the straps are a touch too long the squares are easy to unpick and the straps can be whip stitched back together. The sleeves are just pinned on in the photos, once the shoulder straps are finalized the eyelets can be put in.
All that I really have left to do is make more fingerloop braid for the sleeve lacing and the skirt to bodice lacing.
