Centuries-Sewing

Tag: linen

  • A Green Linen Apron and some 17th Century Goldwork Embroidery Projects

    A Green Linen Apron and some 17th Century Goldwork Embroidery Projects

    April and most of May was a very stressful month for me. All my sewing projects went on hold and I tried to take the time to put myself and self-care first when I could. I’m starting to feel like I have more energy now, I’ve gotten some hand sewing done and started a few embroidery projects that will carry me out until the end of the year.

    Hand sewn sage green linen apron

     

    First up is a simple linen apron in sage green. I hand sewed this all with white linen thread and clocked in at about 10 stitches per inch. Those hems are going nowhere. Using a contrasting thread gave an extra decorative effect and I may make another one for the etsy shop.

    The embroidered stomacher project is back under the machine once more. I took a break to keep my shoulders and neck happy and rethinking my workroom set up for when I need to spend a lot of time at the machine.

    The silver glove cuffs are on hold, because I fell in love with a much more colorful set of gloves from the V&A.
    These are also featured in 17th Century Women’s Dress Pattern Book 2. Mine will not be an exact reproduction (I’m not fond of the tabs with the houses) but will be similar.

    Bird glove cuff traced

    And finally, to get a little more practice with goldwork and working with purl I started a much smaller, less ambitious project. This is based on the 17th-century purse and pincushion at the V&A. Which features purl worked flowers, couched cording and tiny birds covered in seed pearls. There are no measurements listed so I am taking a guess at the size of the pincushion, based on others that survive.

    goldwork pincushion practice

    Some sections of the flowers and leaves I padded out with linen thread, the gold cord I twisted myself with a drill, and in place of seed pearls I am using some white seed beads I had in my stash.

  • Petticoat Bodies Done!

    Petticoat Bodies Done!

    I’ve had the petticoat bodies done for a few weeks now and completely forgot to post the finished photos here.

    Opps.

    In my defense I haven’t been able to get photos of me in them yet, part of me wants to go out and rent a chicken (can one rent a sweet-tempered chicken for photos?) and get a semi-period looking backdrop going on, but right now that doesn’t look like it is going to happen.

    Where we last left off I had things to fix in the bodice, and after pinning sections, unpinning them, and squinting in the mirror I realized the shoulder straps had stretched out despite my efforts at steaming the bias stretch out of them. I took them up at the back shoulder seam and everything fell into place.

    Petticoat bodies and green apron Petticoat bodies front with no apron close up Petticoat bodies front with no apron full shot Petticoat bodies front with apron full shot Petticoat bodies back

  • Finishing up the Petticoat Bodies

    Finishing up the Petticoat Bodies

    The holidays are over, I’ve eaten my own weight in cookies and it is time to finish up the petticoat bodies.

    Last time I posted I finished the bodice and put in the lining. Over the holidays I cut out the skirt, hand sewed it together, and bound the hem.

    Red wool fabric for the petticoat bodies skirt

    My camera did not like this shade of red most of the time.

    Petticoat skirt pattern laid out on the red wool fabric

    Still not the correct shade of red.

    The skirt only took 2 yards and 7 inches of fabric and I was able to use the off cuts and scraps for hem binding.

    Scraps used to bind the petticoat skirt hem

    My handful of scraps before making the binding.

    Running stitch used on the petticoat skirt hem with linen thread

    I used the running stitch for skirt construction with the occasional backstitching where gores met for extra strength. The fabric is a lightweight flannel and doesn’t fray so I don’t need to worry about finishing the edges.

    Flattening the petticoat skirt seams with a wooden clapper

    Clapping the seams!

     

    Whipstitching the petticoat skirt edges down with linen thread

    I left the skirt side seams open at the top so I’d have access to pockets. To finish the edge I just whip stitched the fabric down.

    Petticoat bodies and sleeve on the dress form

    How it currently looks with at least one sleeve pinned on and the basting threads still in.

    Up next, troubleshooting the armscye problem area! My experiment in using wool binding has made that area stiff + the seam allowances from where I pieced the strap. Pinning the sleeve on also caused some pulling. I may need to adjust the angle of the strap by unpicking the binding and adjusting where the strap and bodice meet. What do you guys think?

  • Hand Sewn Petticoat Bodies/Bodice Work in Progress

    Hand Sewn Petticoat Bodies/Bodice Work in Progress

    I forgot to post these, I’ve slowly been sewing away on petticoat bodies from caramel colored wool. Linen/cotton canvas interlining, linen/cotton lining. Sewn with the broken backstitch, running stitch and whip stitch in linen thread. The project has sat in the time out corner a few times.

    First, when I trimmed the neckline corner down a tiny bit too far, I ended up darning it as a fix and reinforcing the area. Second I tried it on and it was too tight! Bah, I need to adjust my bodice block. Thankfully I had an extra large seam allowance in the back so I was able to let it out, but once I did that the back neckline started to have issues. After lots of basting, pressing, and re-basting I sewed up another 1/4 an inch and that seemed to fix it.

    The lining is in, the armscyes bound, so it just needs eyelets and a tiny bit of clean up, oh and the petticoat. I have 5 yards of red wool (lucky e-bay find) which should be enough for a new kirtle *and* the petticoat if I am careful with my cutting.

     

    petticoatbodiescut

    petticoatbodiceshoulderstrap

    petticoatbodiceshellside

    petticoatbodiceshell padstitchedinnerpb

  • Pad stitching and Shaping a Linen Doublet

     

    Some work in progress shots of a 16th century black linen doublet.

    Doublet front basted and shaped.

    Doublet front basted and shaped.

     

    Under side of the doublet front, canvas and pad stitched wool

     

    Under side of the doublet front, canvas and pad stitched wool.

    Under side of the doublet back, more canvas and pad stitched wool.

    Under side of the doublet back, more canvas and pad stitched wool.

  • Nonesuch Market Woman

    Nonesuch Market Woman

    Starting off the New Year with finishing a big project!

    More photos can be found on the Nonesuch costume page.

    Market woman front shot Nonesuch map market woman